Nissan R390 GT1 LM 1998 [Job Log]

On the right is a conversion kit from the Renaissance. 

Compare... 

Compare... 

Compare... 

Too messy mould. 

Too messy mould. 

Too messy mould. 

The left and right window frames are different, but I don't know which one is the right one. 

This is 2x apple cider vinegar. 

Twisted body. 

Twisted body. 

Fixed twisting by soaking in boiling water. 

The original kit fits perfectly with the glass parts, but... 

It does not fit well to the conversion kit. 

There is interference between the marked parts and the internal parts have to be cut. 

The rear under cowl also has to be cut out as it doesn't fit the original kit. (The manual of the conversion kit states to cut the lower plate of the main body) 

The thickness of the marked area is considerable. 

I cut it out a little to fit it, but I think it would be too difficult to trim the body, so it would be better to cut the necessary part and transplant it. 

I cut it without thinking. 

It is very heavy because it is so thick. 

Scraped off. 

Because of the marked catch pin, I couldn't get it to fit properly, so I dug a hole for the pin. 

But, this vehicle does not have a catch pin in this position. 

I scraped it a little more to make it look thinner on the outside. 

I cut the side skirts leaving the marked area. 

Cut the side skirt of the conversion kit and transplant it. 

Pre-assemble. 

It didn't fit right and there was a gap, so I put epoxy putty on it. 

Trimmed. 

It seems to be finish if I trim the marked area a little more. 

Finally, I need to drill a vent in the front cowl.
It need more detail, but I decided to just drill a hole and skip. 

Fitting done. 

Fitting done. 

It was still too heavy, so I cut off more. 

I glue that conversion part to the cowl.
Instead of the cut horizontal plate, I cut a plastic plate and made a new one and attached it. 

It was firmly attached with Loctite. 

Painted black surfacer on the inside. 

It's is PE, so I painted the white surfacer because it had to be painted red. Vallejo Mecha Primer(White) was used. 

I uploaded a white surfacer, but the color difference is visible because the base color is different. 

So, I painted the gradation with gray surfacer. 

Then, I painted the white surfacer and red. 

Now paint blue to make it a gradient... 

I painted the clear once because I had to put on a decal. 

The yellowed decal will recover to some extent if it is left on the glass window for a day or two. 

Rotten decal. 🙁
It's been 20 years since I bought it, so it's good enough. These days, when purchasing a product, decals are always vacuum-packed and stored. 

Anyway, once I sticked it all together.
It took about 6 hours. 

I barely sticked it while stitching things that were randomly crumbling. 

I barely sticked it while stitching things that were randomly crumbling. 

I barely sticked it while stitching things that were randomly crumbling. 

I barely sticked it while stitching things that were randomly crumbling. 

I barely sticked it while stitching things that were randomly crumbling. 

I barely sticked it while stitching things that were randomly crumbling. 

The part where the decal was torn was painted with Vallejo paint and a brush. 

Of course, there are quite a few parts that are not completely covered, but I expect that it will not be a problem if I add a sponsor decal on top of this. 

The bright sky blue was easy to mix. 

It's messy, but there are parts that will be partially covered by the sponsor decal. 

It was clear coated to add sponsor decals. 

Decal work done. 

I had to stick it around the tail lamp, but it was beyond my skill to attach it, so I gave up 🙁 

It's the only decal that I thought was attached cleanly, but when I looked again, there was a huge silver ring on the transparent part.
It looked difficult to solve with a melting method, so I decided to cut it with a knife. 

Open a can of Worms. 😭 

I painted it with a brush and made it as similar as possible. 🤔 

1st. clear coated. 

Heavy orange peel. 

The clear coating condition of the decal part is very bad. 

I even wanted to give up in this state. 

The slits on both sides of the windshield also have a very bumpy surface. 

Anyway, sanded it.
but.... 

It wasn't erased because of sanding, but the decal that was less attached was broken and came off. 

It was erased due to excessive sanding. 

It was erased due to excessive sanding. 

It was erased due to excessive sanding. 

Painted with a brush using Vallejo white. 

I mixed the Vallejo paint and filled it with a brush. 

I mixed the Vallejo paint and filled it with a brush. 

The black part was drawn with a water-based pen.
It was difficult to draw Bridgestone's B logo. 

I'm glad the white letters on the wing didn't have any problems. 

It has been sanded and clear coated several times, but the picture was omitted.
The decal in the marked area continued to wrinkle even after retouching and coating several times, so I applied a very thick coating only to that area. 

Final sanded. 

Compounded. 

Painted panel line. 

No progress picture left, But I painted the base color from masking and painting several times 

I painted mindlessly. 

The wheels were coated with vallejo matte varnish because the gloss had to be lower than that of plating. The wheel nuts were painted because the left and right sides were divided into red and blue in the actual car. 

It looks like it's a steel tie in a real car, but I'm going to glue the engine cowl so that it doesn't open and close anyway, so I roughly painted it with a chrome marker. 

Ready to assemble. 

Etched parts were painted with Vallejo mecha primer. 

The rear reflector was hardened by mixing clear red with uv resin. I mixed a lot of clear red and it didn't harden well, so I had to expose it to sunlight for a long time. 

I applied the remaining decals.
I didn't detail-up the seat belt because it would be almost invisible after completion. 

Assemble.... 

Aaaaasemble.... 

This livery vehicle has tire decals. 

I should have painted the windshield, but I forgot. 

Windshield attached. 

The tail lamp does not fit well because the hole to insert it is narrow. 

Widen the hole and... 

Looking at the photo of the actual car, it seems that the marked area is painted red. 

Glued rear mesh from the inside. 

Attach the remaining parts to complete the assembly of the rear cowl. 

The front grill and headlights were attached, and the adhesive edge was coated with wood glue. 

Green arrow: After attaching the etching, I thought that the marked area had to be drilled, so I drilled it.
Red arrow: I mixed the colors and the over-painted color was not accurate, so it looked like a blotch. 

I'm trying to combine the upper and lower body, but they do not fit well because there is interference in the marked area. 

The marked area is like this because the area I had painted over with a water based marker was smeared.
When coating the water-based marker, do not spray it vigorously from the beginning, but spray it dry to apply a rough coating and then moisten the coating.
Since I already have no way to restore it, I have no choice but to complete it as it is. 

Next, cover and secure the rear cowl and attach the wings.
Originally, it would be correct to be able to separate the rear part based on the wing, but... 

The rear cowl was cut to reduce weight, so unintentional space was created in the marked area.
I can't see it unless I flip it over, so I'll just ignore it and move on...

I'm tired and I don't want to touch it anymore 🙁 

side mirrors attached. And I found the nissan logo among the metal stickers I had and put it on. 

Attached custom antenna. 

Finished. 

Finished.