"Elvis" MetalEarth A-64 SkyCrane

A word on Trimming of Parts: I try to trim the part from the "fret" as close as possible, with a fine but sturdy pair of nippers. Make sure the nippers are capable of trimming wire & metal, not just plastic (you'll ruin them very quickly!).
The centre of this shot shows the remainder of the join with the fret. If this remainder is going to be visible, if it's going to compromise the edge fit, if it's going to cause a scratch, then I would remove it. There are some that you just can't get to, where you would have to use a small chisel. Whilst MetalEarth models are good, they're not museum models so I wouldn't get too anal about it. Up to you, of course! 

This is what my trimmed part looks like. The best you can expect is a divot.
Now on to the model..... 

Clockwise from top left, Step 1, Step 2, Step 3..... Will try to keep this log trickling along
?? Can you spot my error ??? ** (Bummer!!)
Here's a tip - why not mark the Non-Etched (back) of all apparently featureless parts with a marker so you don't get confused like I did?!?!?) 

This is the finished product, being the bend in engine assembly, and very difficult to complete. It's all one piece.
** And yes, it was at this point I realised the error in my interpretation of the instructions, in that I took the "Etched Side" to be the side with the bending etches, which is in fact the back of the "Etched Side" when you cut it from the sheet. And of course, there's no way to reverse this!! 

 

Here's another 4 parts added to one of the engines - NOTE be VERY careful of the way in which you orientate the bracket hanging under the engine!!! (Not good to discover in Step 17 that you've got it wrong) 

and here's the above bent and wrangled add to complete the LHS engine - 12 parts in all!!! 

Some hints on making this "bent" section of the engine: I've tried two methods. On the first attempt I rolled both the ends and then brought them together by bending the tabs in a "V" shape to get them to point through the slots. Got there in the end, but it was very difficult work. 

Here's the instruction sheet section for this bend. On the second attempt I decided to bend both the tabs (as above) and also the slots, as you can see in the above photo. After completing the rolling, I saw very quickly that I had to straighten the tabs to go through the bent slots, and I think this worked better, as it was easier to grab the tabs ends to complete the part. - Phew!!! 

Another view of the partly bent part 

Both engines complete, although stripey!!!  

As they will appear atop "Elvis" 

Front view 

back view...... That completes step 6!! 

Step 7 is the whole cockpit, here shown complete 

All the seats look quite good, but the control columns are so small (lost one of them, it jumped 0.5m across the floor into the ducted heating - used another essential too - magnetic ended torch - to retrieve it! !;^)} - Resorted to using a dab of thick CA glue to keep the control columns in place. 

Completed cockpit interior 

Step 8: Making the front wheel & then inserts into the front bottom panel, but stays loose!! 

Another DAB of CA Glue & fixer - solved that problem! 

Step 9: Now for the curvy stuff. First you curve the nose panel in TWO directions - fortunately the panel is split so you can achieve that. Then you have to curve the whole of the rest of the cabin. Don't try to be too ambitious to get every tab to fit at once..... 

Focus on joining the nose tabs on ONE side to the cabin - there's 3 of them. when you wrangle those in, half fold the tabs into place. Then do the other side of the nose to the other side of the cabin - you may need to pre-fold the tabs a bit. 

Here's the inside view with both sides attached to the nose - not crimped shut yet. 

You can improve the curves at this point between finger & thumb 

Then we look at attaching the top of the nose to the windscreen frames - push the window frames up, out of the way for now, while you start to bend the nose-top over - I also bent the slots (There's a crease-mark just below them) a little to aid the insertion of the tabs. 

You sort-of have to squeeze the nose parts together as you align each one with the corresponding frames, as you move each frame into each slot. 

Lightly fold them over so that they hold their position. 

When it all looks good, you can crimp all 10 tab points around the nose...that's enough for tonight!!! 

End of Step 9: insert the cockpit interior from Step 8 - 4 tabs to insert through the cabin sides 

You may need to adjust the "Z" in the cabin floor to extend or reduce the tab spacing.
This also gives you the opportunity to correct the shape of the cabin, and bend the windscreen frames as required. 

Step 10: starts with a window frame and ladder rails, which you'll see 4 shots down. But the "box" is another example of where MetalEarth want you to hide the tabs & eyes. They don't just push together as they might seem...... 

To do this, I bend the eyes 90 degrees right on the edge of the part, so you need to grip the eyes really tightly.
Then I bend the tabs 90 degrees in much the same way. This reverses the way they will go together, making them hidden from the outside. 

Once you've got them inserted INSIDE the box, I use a very fine chisel to pry the tab away from the flat surface so I can grip it fully. 

Then pull the tabs firmly & bend them to the side they originated - once all at this stage, go back over them and squeeze them flush against the surface. You might find that a pair of bent pliers will work best here. 

Finish of Step 10: press that box into the rest of this assembly & twist in place. 

Step 11: More secret tabs here, so prep the part by bending the eyes & tabs, as above. 

I then lightly bent the bulk of the part with a large dowel, then bent the end, inserted the tab through the eye & tightened & flattened in the inside. 

There's 2 other parts that get attached to the outside of this section - the white part has to be bent concave a bit, as can be seen covering the "7". 

Do the same with the other half of this tank - then prepare the other 6 tabs & eyes for hidden tab assembly.
Assemble the 2 halves by working through ONE edge at a time - I started with the main spine. 

and it should look like the diagram - Cool, eh? 

Step 12: Building the straight white pipe thingey!!!
I'm using a "Small Shop" rolling tool, which comes with a number of varying diameter steel rods & wooden pins, plus a metal base. Whilst this isn't a cheap item, it'll last forever! You could always just build up your own variety of rods & dowels to do much the same task.
So here I've lined up the 1st part of the pipe, used an appropriate rod, and pressed it into the metal block.
What I should have done first was prepare for yet more secret tabs & eyes......  

I then used a smaller rod (after the tab/eye prep) to close the "pipe" further.
I use the point of my fine chisel to direct the tabs into the eyes, and proceeded to close the pipe further 

A little bit of further plier massaging.....that's pipe-like enough for me 

OK! 

Same deal with the next section 

and again with the last section 

Damn, there's another secret tab/eye to hold the bend in place - very glad I had these skinny long-nose pliers to reach inside..... 

and crimp it shut....
See, you can never have too many tools!! 

and here's the pipe! 

Then you have to extend that with another piece - don't bend the tabs the full 90 degrees before you insert it in the previous pipe. I tried using a rod between these side to make it look round......................you just gotta try!!!! 

The finished pipe & extension 

All of these sub-assemblies can just sit and wait until they're called for!!! 

Step 13: This is bound to be a very challenging piece to build. I approached this thanks to a suggestion from my friend Harry, but not having any thick fuse wire at hand, I used the discarded coated wire from a calendar, and bent it to the shape required for the pipe. I taped the final end of the piece to the wire to keep it in place. NOTE that the structural strength of this part is minimal, so proceed very carefully. 

I used a pair of none non-marking pliers to bend the piece half-way around the wire. At the completion of this I removed the wire as it would not be possible to pull it out if all the segments were closed. I then used just the end section of the wire to help close each segment in turn. 

Here's the completed part - looks a little like an insect larva 

Part A50 holds the pipe in place a the end, and then part B51 is added to that. B51 is another one of those hidden tab & eye connection jobs. I rolled B51 around a 5.0mm dowel to get the curve right. 

The finished part B51 - the final internal diameter is less than 5.0mm  

Note when you attach B51 to the pipe that the slot in B51 needs to align with the BACK of the pipe. 

Yep, I've used all these pliers at some point during this build, and the chisel & rolling tool! 

Here I've attached the straight pipe to the end of the tank, and to the convex bracket on the side of the tack 

Here I've attached the curved segmented hose to the end of the tank and to the tab on the side of the tank with B51 

That's step 13 done - looks pretty good. 

Step 14: Undercarriage time and it features more hidden tab & eye joins - one on each leg. Now I found it impossible to get a good solid, secure hold with this tab & eye......So in the end I resorted to a drop of CA superglue & a drop of fixer - Perfect!!
NOTE - Part A53 attaches to the top of this leg, and is the smallest part in the model........don't lose it - there's no spares!!! 

B54 needs some careful "coning" and bending - refer to part B57 to see how far apart the 4 tabs need to be - it doesn't get closed completely. 

It then gets attached to that tiny part A53 to complete the undercarriage leg! 

The finished leg & wheel assembly........whew!
and I have to do it again! 

The second assembly was much swifter - went for the CA superglue straight away!! 

Steps 15 & 16: Undercarriage leg assembly - another 3 hidden Tab & Eye connections for each 

Step 15 completed with the previous assembly added - surprisingly sturdy! 

Step 16 completed too 

I used a marker to label each, just in case there's a difference I haven't spotted. 

Step 17: Another fleet of hidden tabs & eyes on all three parts, but don't bend the tabs on the horizontal straight part of B59. You'll need to use something conical to wrap these parts around 

After you've made the conical part of B59, then wrap the straight part around a dowel. the vertically pointing tabs only need a little bending. 

All 3 parts built 

Step 17 assembled - this builds the main vertical rotor shaft & the differential for the tail rotor shaft. Note the horizontal orientation of the latter. 

Step 18: Make sure that you bend the rotor mounting tabs in over each other, or you will cover slots need further on in this step. (bottom view with all 6 rotor blades mounted) 

Top view of all rotor blades mounted. 

it's quite a span!! 

Part A67 MUST be bent the right way - bend away from you when looking at the etched surface -Oh and anther hidden tab & eye join required here. - If you bend it the wrong way, then the tabs wont match the recipient slots in part B65 (rotor hub) 

I pressed pulled the tabs for A67 through quite firmly, resulting in the "standing" attitude, which can be straightened later. 

The Rotor shaft from the previous steps was then added underneath - It's quite flimsy, so I used a liberal amount of CA superglue here to........make me feel happy about it!! 

Step 18 Completed 

Completed with a cap! 

Step 19: Bodywork! First we build and add the tail rotor shaft housings along the back. They're quite small, you can see the last one waiting to be fitted, and they must be accurately made. When you secure them, check to see they remain straight & square. 

Step 20: NOTE the instructions here - the bottom of the part is NOT brought up to connect yet.
ALSO, the arrows indicate that the side should be bent OVER, which is wrong, as it's better left straight, pointing UP.
The instructions are mis-leading in that they show the rear curled over & connected - Not Yet!! 

The tail-rotor shaft has been fitted, plus a "box", and other earlier built assemblies including the engines. This is where the correct orientation of the engine brackets is tested. 

Close up 

There's a shroud that goes over the engines.... 

looking good 

Then the rotor shaft assembly get added 

Step 19 Completed and set aside... 

The 5 Triangular parts are numbered on the front 1-5, and most easily attached while this rear structure is open. 

Reverse view, still OPEN 

Step 21: Very Skinny bending pliers required for the shaft. Then make sure these parts is firmly fastened together.  

Step 22: Tail rotor assembly attached during this step 

Step 22: This is a very flimsy part, so make sure you understand the folding & clamping instructions.
The forward 2 slots are a little too big, allowing the part to go right through the fuselage.
Solution: Hold it in place & use some CA superglue!! 

Preparing to close this section - Very careful work required. 

Part from Step 21 is attached, then tail section can be closed 

Tail assembly completed 

Step 22 continues for another 3 pages, so includes the completion of the build, with a fuselage extension that is very hard to attached properly - I later glued it in place, and some surface details on the port side 

more details on the starboard side 

Then we add the payload, built earlier - pretty straight-forward 

The undercarriage assemblies (glad I had labelled them 15 & 16) 

Only 2 tabs secure these........so I glued 'em!!! 

Then you get to add the cockpit section - I bent over the eyelets to hide the join. 

The earlier glue (6 photos earlier) meant that this whole assembly was quite robust! 

Then we add the crew entry section & I guess fuel supply 

Following the advice on the instructions by manouevering the four forward mounts is the way to go, a 

and there's enough flex in the side to line up the aft tab - just make sure it's outside of the "box" so you can reach it. 

same on the other side... 

Not too bad, although I haven't tried to broaden the upper section (with the numbers on it) to match the sides. 

Underneath view of the crew access section 

Now to mount the lower fuselage - BIG TIP: Don't exert any pressure on the nose-wheel!! There are 8 tabs/eyes to line up. It's a slow process! - put it away for a while if you feel the least hint of frustration - it will fit eventually 

See! It fits. 

I played a little with the curves around the nose.... 

I think this is the best I can do with my big hands & fingers! 

and it's not a tail-sitter 

Time to bring in the top section completed earlier in step 19 - I hope you kept it safe?! Glasses are just for a scale reference 

Elvis has left the................................................workbench!! 

I should have paid more attention to the rotor blade positions as I was gluing them... 

So she won't fly with the blades distributed this badly!!
But hey, that was fun!!!
Any other MetalEarth after this will be a breeze. - Good luck with yours!
Thanks for watching!
Roger Trewenack