Krachenvogel FNS465 Build

Clean desk ready for the build

Parts in their bags.

Bag o' parts! 1mm and 0.3mm metal rods, springs, and cable.

Paint/decal guide and manual in Japanese. Time for the Google Translate app.

Decals

Decal guide

Sample of the inside. Pretty clear but there's no per-part paint guidance...

...just the guidance on this enclosed card which is pretty rough. And, yes, the background of the color guide is yellow! I'll have to do some digital mockups.

These are the colors I've selected for this build. Nice range of grays and then a red for some pops of color, along with a camel yellow I mixed up (7 yellow + 1 orange), and a red gray (1 basalt + 2 red) for a bit of variation. The core color will be basalt gray but weathered with a dry brushing of black and sky gray.

These two parts need to get drilled out so light can shine through them once the LED is installed in the Sensor Unit. The holes in the Sensor Units are part of the mold.

Drilling the holes with parts still on the sprue. Can you imagine how it would go otherwise?

Hole-y cow!

This flat area on the left of the Sensor Tower needs to get drilled out for the light to shine through.

I mark the spot with a pin prick which will also give the drill bit a place to bight.

And here we go - a hole!

Top-down view with the piece that will go on top of the hole.

The Sensor Tower main window will need to be fogged up to allow light out but deny viewers a clear view in. This will prevent them from seeing the LEDs and the undecorated interior mold. This photo shows a test of a clear part with the top half varnished in about 10 coats of Vallejo Matt Medium and the bottom half as-is. Looking good...

And here's a sample of how this glazed effect successfully blurs things behind it in contrast to the (relative) clarity of the default clear. I'm happy with how this is looking and will paint the window.

Sensor Tower window before varnishing...

... and after. I started off brushing the matt varnish on but realized I could swirl around a little bit on the interior of the glass for a more even appearance. I only did one coat so the window would look dirty. I'll clean up the part's edges once I disconnect it from the sprues.

Drilling out the bottom of the Sensor Tower at exactly 2mm so the post that fits into it will be nice and snug

Sample part getting painted. I'm hand painting for a more textured look. Don't Vallejo Model Color acrylics look good?

Introducing the Power Unit which has been assembled from many sanded parts. It sits just below the Sensor Tower and will get washed and painted shortly. Construction of the Sensor Tower is on hold until LEDs arrive for installation (several days).

Power Unit painted Basalt Gray acrylic then panel lined to make things pop

Blacking out the interior of the Sensor Tower prior to LED installation

Here are the LEDs I'll use for this project along with the battery, switch, and some extra thin wire for connections and extensions. The Deka (larger than Nano) will illuminate the Sensor Tower from its ceiling. The Nanos will go to the interior back at port (red) and starboard (green). The wire will snake down vertically through the interior (and select exteriors) of the craft until the base where it will be connected to a removable battery and switch for a cleaner appearance when illumination isn't required.

Here we see the Deka (3.5mm at its widest) with a layer of white acrylic paint to reduce its brightness and one of the Nanos (1.6mm at its widest). After some tests I found that white paint made the light too orange so I scratched it off and replaced it with a few thick coats of matt varnish which yielded a better effect.

Let there be light!

Cyanoacrylate gluing the aft port light for the initial hold. It was a little tricky bending this around the vertical prong.

After cyanoacrylate glue dries I cover it in neutral cure silicone glue for a long-term bond.

All 3 LEDs installed. One Deka into the ceiling (dead center) and a flashing red and green aft. The electrical tape blocks light from leaking through the plastic and secures loose wires.

Now I glue on the bottom half of the Sensor Tower

The wires run out of the Sensor Tower at the bottom. I'll keep them short here while I paint and sand and, when complete, pull the full length of wire out of the Sensor Tower and down. That way I can get paint on the wires here without concern.