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SpikeSpiegel
MS K (SpikeSpiegel)
KR

[Moderoid] Giant Robo (Job Log)

Album image #1
Washed. 
 

Album image #2
Using OYUMARU. 
 

Album image #3
It is to replace the rivet expressed in the shape of a water drop in a circle...
But, the downside of Oyumaru is that it is difficult to duplicate multiple times in one mold.
The right side is the first copy, and the left side is the second and third copies. 
 

Album image #4
So this time I decided to replicate it using silicone putty (siligum). 
 

Album image #5
I used uv resin. 
 

Album image #6
Because I didn't make the mold the right way and roughly pressed it, I got a less stamped part like the marked part.
Anyway, even if I took several copies with one mold, all of them were copied cleanly. 
 

Album image #7
I need to temporarily assemble the ankle parts to check the location of the duplicated rivets, but I cut the male pins diagonally to make it easier to separate. 
 

Album image #8
Remove the rivets in problem... 
 

Album image #9
Trim with files, knives, nippers, sandpaper, etc... 
 

Album image #10
I also worked on bracelet in the same way. 
 

Album image #11
The joint parts were attached with plenty of adhesive, and only the bonded lines were removed, and it seems that there is no need for additional painting. (Red Arrow) 
 

Album image #12
Washing with dark brown and brushed the convex area. 
 

Album image #13
Now I have to paint it once, so I mixed the blue color as close as possible to the color of the plastic. 
 

Album image #14
I only painted the rear head because I had to assemble the head together with the face and then deal with the bonded line. 
 

Album image #15
The muzzle of the waist was blocked, so I pierced it and sanded the parting line, and the marked place was over grinded. I will just pass. 
 

Album image #16
Since I have to paint while assembling, I painted the parts to be assembled together first. 
 

Album image #17
I painted the black parts metallic black, but it was too shiny, so I tried gunmetal, but it was brighter than I wanted. 
 

Album image #18
What I wanted was a heavy cast iron feel, so I decided to paint it black and express the texture with drive rush. 
 

Album image #19
Each part was assembled and the bonded line was also trimmed. 
 

Album image #20
The part that looks like a toenail was awkward, so I got rid of it, and cut and attached pla-plate. 
 

Album image #21
Apply the duplicated rivets. 
 

Album image #22
Apply the duplicated rivets. 
 

Album image #23
Apply the duplicated rivets. 
 

Album image #24
Apply the duplicated rivets. 
 

Album image #25
The weather has been so cold lately that I couldn't paint, so I decided to trim the doll. (Here is late winter)
I trimmed the bonded line of the hip. 
 

Album image #26
The clogged part of the shoe heel was shaved off. 
 

Album image #27
I was curious about the proportions, so I tried to assemble them.
Fantastic body proportions. 
 

Album image #28
I painted black base layer to make it look like a stain later. 
 

Album image #29
However, it failed because the shielding power of the custom mixed paint was too good. 
 

Album image #30
At the end of the exhaust port, GSI's graphite color was painted. 
 

Album image #31
The inside of the exhaust was painted in 'musou black', similar to 'Vanta Black'. 
 

Album image #32
The doll parts were base layer with a Vallejo white primer. 
 

Album image #33
Hey, you'd be in trouble if you forgot us... 
 

Album image #34
As it turned out, it was a part that should have been in the marked place.
It was painful to disassemble the area that had been re-edited several times because the adhesive line was not well removed. 
 

Album image #35
However, since it is impossible to assemble without these parts, the only option is to disassemble them... 
 

Album image #36
Now assemble the bracelet and anklet and remove the adhesive line... 
 

Album image #37
Then, stick 48 big rivets. 
 

Album image #38
Masked. 
 

Album image #39
Gray surfacer. 
 

Album image #40
IPP red. 
 

Album image #41
Mask offed and painted GSI smooth clear(matt). 
 

Album image #42
After darkly coloring the shadow part of the doll's skin...
The dress is expressed so that the flesh color slightly shows through the chest, hips, and lower belly. 
 

Album image #43
The light skin color was applied to express the contrast of the soft skin.
 
 

Album image #44
I painted each base color.
The china dress was lightly coated with white pearl. 
 

Album image #45
Hand brushed.
It took about 6 hours just to hand painting. 
 

Album image #46
The joints of the hands also need to be painted. 
 

Album image #47
Decal done.
When attaching the female eye decals according to the mold, the distance between the eyes would be too far, so I ignored the mold and pasted it on the place I liked. 
 

Album image #48
To finish, I sprayed GSI smooth clear. 
 

Album image #49
The booster nozzle was empty, so I decided to fill it with black. 
 

Album image #50
Cut the Hasegawa matte black sheet paper with a circle cutter... 
 

Album image #51
Applied as left. 
 

Album image #52
I can't use enamel paint because of the headache. So I did a dry brushing test with water-based paint... but I think can't use this.
I'll try rubbing it with the Tamiya Weathering Master. 
 

Album image #53
I have never washed it with water-based paint, so I tested it.
On the left, I only tried black wash, and on the right, I tried a few more. 
 

Album image #54
Tamiya Weathering Master Test.
O.K. It looks like this could be used. 
 

Album image #55
Now I attached the breast to the skirt and trimmed the adhesive line. 
 

Album image #56
Masking... 
 

Album image #57
I painted the customized blue and coated it with GSI smooth clear. 
 

Album image #58
Assembled the doll while the clear was drying.
The shoes were painted with Tamiya acrylic clear (glossy).
It's not my area of expertise, so I think this is my best quality. 😉 
 

Album image #59
I assembled a few things for weathering. 
 

Album image #60
I assembled a few things for weathering. 
 

Album image #61
The booster was only drive-rushed with Tamiya Weathering Master Gunmetal. 
 

Album image #62
I washed it while saving streaking with Vallejo 'Wash'. 
 

Album image #63
I washed it while saving streaking with Vallejo 'Wash'. 
 

Album image #64
I washed it while saving streaking with Vallejo 'Wash'. 
 

Album image #65
And, I finished it after adding a little more detail using Tamiya Weathering Master and 'GSI Weathering Liner'.
I thought about chipping, but since it is a very large robot, it would rather reduce the sense of scale, so I omitted it. - Actually, it was annoying 😉 
 

Album image #66
At the end of each muzzle, the soot was painted with graphite color. 
 

Album image #67
In the front, the area around the muzzle was painted with soot and weathering was finished. 
 

Album image #68
Expressing soot around the muzzle and the part where the heat of the booster touches... 
 

Album image #69
Finally, just assemble it and you're done!
I took a picture of Tamiya adhesive for size comparison. 
 

Album image #70
Done 
 

Album image #71
Done. 
 

Komentarzy

11 July 2024, 08:51 -

Album info

FHD images are here.
Job Log 1/3 - motorart.tistory.com/615
Job Log 2/3 - motorart.tistory.com/618
Job Log 3/3 - motorart.tistory.com/619

116 zdjęć/zdjęcia
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No Giant Robo (Good Smile Company 161016)

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